Florence: The David, the Duomo, and Two-Hour Lunches

The Baptistery and the Duomo
The Baptistery and the Duomo

Arriving via Assisi

We reached Florence on day five by way of Assisi, where a local guide, Daniella, walked us through Santa Chiara and the Basilica of San Francesco after lunch at Trattoria La Pallotta. Dinner our first Florence night was Buca Mario, then a nightcap at the Westin’s rooftop bar — a view we returned to more than once.

The Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi
The Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi
An Assisi plaza
An Assisi plaza
Santa Chiara in Assisi
Santa Chiara in Assisi
The Arno at night, from the Westin rooftop
The Arno at night, from the Westin rooftop

Eating Our Way Through the City

Florence is where the two-hour lunch became our religion.

  • Trattoria 13 Gobbi — zucchini and blue cheese appetizer and another bowl of ribollita. When in Tuscany, always ribollita.
  • Le Bussola — so good we went twice. Wood-fired pizza and house-made tagliatelle with porcini the first visit; a margherita-style pizza with prosciutto and a sampler of four tiramisus the second. McKenzie ditched her prosciutto and cantaloupe for half my pizza.
  • Le Osteria di Giovanni — pesto pasta and osso bucco for me, a filet for Chad.
  • Parione — our last-night dinner spot.
  • Cibreo — porcini soup and slow-cooked beef on the night we got back from Lucca.
Dinner at Buca Mario, Florence
Dinner at Buca Mario, Florence
The zucchini appetizer at Trattoria 13 Gobbi
The zucchini appetizer at Trattoria 13 Gobbi
Ribollita — when in Tuscany, always ribollita
Ribollita — when in Tuscany, always ribollita
Seafood pasta in Florence
Seafood pasta in Florence

The Greatest Hits, With a Private Guide

On day seven we booked a private guide for the classics: the Accademia and Michelangelo’s David, the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria and the Perseus with the Head of Medusa, and the Uffizi square. Worth it — Florence’s big sights come with big lines and bigger stories, and a guide sorts both. Gelato after, at La Strega Nocciola.

Michelangelo's David at the Accademia
Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia
Piazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria
The Arno by day
The Arno by day

Day Trip: Pisa and Lucca

The train makes this an easy day: about an hour to Pisa, long enough for the Leaning Tower, the church in the square and a quick coffee, then 30 minutes more to Lucca. Lunch at GiGi Trattoria with the house wine, the Guinigi Tower, the city wall, and Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. Back in Florence for dinner.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa
The Leaning Tower of Pisa
Lucca from the top of the Guinigi Tower
Lucca from the top of the Guinigi Tower
Lucca's city wall
Lucca’s city wall

My Rating ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 / 5

Highlights

  • Le Bussola, twice — the tiramisu sampler alone earns the return trip
  • A private guide for David and the Duomo
  • The Pisa/Lucca train day: two towns, zero stress
  • Rooftop nightcaps at the Westin

Good to know

  • Book the Accademia and Uffizi ahead, or go with a guide who handles entry
  • Pisa needs an hour or two, not a day — pair it with Lucca
  • Lunch is the main event in Florence; let it run long

More from our 2018 Italy trip: Tuscany, from a Villa Built in 1786 and Venice: Eating Like a Local.